Brazil is Burning

Friends have asked me what the mood is in Brazil during the World Cup (Copa Mundial).

Monday night, Brazil was on fire. Everywhere we looked (and smelled) were bonfires.

Everyone hoped that Brazil would cruise to a 3-0-0 record in the Group Stage.

Earlier in the week, there was a lot of hand-wringing over the tie game with reigning Olympic medalists, Mexico. After Monday's victory against Cameroon, Brazil's record stood at 2-0-1. They emerged as the number one seed in their group--ahead of Mexico (also 2-0-1)--but only by virtue of the tie-breaking goal-differential.

Brazilian expectations are always high. Vince Lombardi famously said, "Winning isn't everything, it is the only thing." For Brazilians, winning the number one seed in their group is not nearly enough. They wanted to win it by a large margin, leaving no doubt they are the best in the world.

And if they don't win four more games, including the final in Rio, it will be a huge blow to the country. They've yet to forget the loss to Uruguay 64 years ago, despite five intervening championships. Anyone who thinks playing baseball for the Yankees is tough due to high expectations has never been to Brazil during a World Cup.

Yet, all the taxi drivers will tell you that they don't think Brazil will win. Their money is on the Germans and the Dutch.

Back to Monday night and the fires...

We were attending the Mexico-Croatia game at the same time as Brazil was besting Cameroon to clinch the A1 seed. Periodically, a huge cheer would go up in the arena, despite nothing noteworthy happening in the Mexico match. It was all the Brazilian fans screaming in joy every time Brazil scored a goal in the other match.

As the buses taking us back to the subway wound through the Brazilian countryside, we saw house after house with large wooden bonfires lining the road. People were dancing and cheering. The air was so thick with smoke that our eyes were tearing. For the two-hour trip home on the bus, subway, and taxi, we saw many, many such bonfires, and the smell of smoke permeated the entire city.


There were explosions all night and into the morning outside our apartment balcony.

Opa (Wow!), these guys really know how to celebrate. And so far, they have only reached the Round of 16! I can only imagine how they'll celebrate if they win the final!

The next day, I asked some Brazilian friends about fires and the World Cup.

They shook their heads...

No, the fires had nothing to do with the World Cup, nor protests, etc.

It was June 23rd, the night on which many Brazilians celebrate the Festa de São João (Festival of Saint John) with bonfires and fireworks. On the 24th, they continue with street festivals.

My friend, something of a local historian and cultural ambassador said that as planes fly into Recife on the night of June 23rd each year, they see what looks like a city engulfed in flames and smoke, but it is just the residents celebrating.

So, maybe football isn't the only thing in Brazil, even during the World Cup. Or maybe it is just a good omen.

...and now you know, the *rest* of the story...